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January 23, 2008
High Heels and Meatloaf
I've got a bit of a reputation as an old fashioned girl, so when I found out I had to develop classic retro desserts recipes, it wasn't hard to for me to get in the mood. I started by getting in costume, with a little help from my Grandma's vintage apron collection, and both my grannies' spirit for the kind of simple, home-made sweets that lured family members from far and wide. Then I hit the history books and meditated on the life of Donna Reed.
The trip down culinary memory lane is a lovely one, beautifully paved by mid-century cooking tomes. They evoke an era that changed the American culinary landscape forever. Gone were the highly technique-based pastries brought over from Europe, and in their place emerged a slew of truly American desserts invented on our own soil by women in high heels and swing skirts. Okay, I’m generalizing a bit, but I find this image so charming that I once wrote a short-story about that called High Heels and Meatloaf. But when it comes to the embodiment of retro renaissance, I admit I have a few strikes against me. For starters, I'm more often seen sporting a ponytail than a coiffed bob, and what's worse, I disdain meatloaf. But I vow not to let that hold me back!
And as always, I'm taking my colleagues along for the ride. A week of retro-centric conversations in our kitchens has provided a window into our collective childhood that is utterly unifying. In all of our reminiscence, the same desserts keep showing up over and over again—Ambrosia, Peach Melba, Tapioca Pudding, Jell-O, Junket, Grasshoppers, Red Velvet Cake, Banana Pudding and Chiffon Pies. But the question remains-- What exactly does retro mean?
Food historians define retro as anything from the 20s to the 70s, but within those decades there dozens of sub cultures and categories. Retro desserts spring from the sort of packaged sweets made popular during war time as much as they come from soda fountain culture. They include slab pies and other farmhouse favorites, as well as classic regional specialties like Charleston's famed Lady Baltimore Cake. And one can't forget the iconic desserts from the pages of Sunset magazine 40 years ago, or the menus of institutional restaurants like the Brown Derby in 1960s Hollywood.
The truth is a retro dessert is any dessert that gets people talking about old times with the kind of wink and sparkle you don't see every day. And, to truly be comprehensive in my research, I’d love to hear just what kind of old-fashioned sweets make you wink and sparkle.
In the meantime, I better put away my apron and step out for some air. All this nostalgia seems to be weakening my stance on meatloaf.
Sarah Copeland, Food Network Kitchens
Posted by Food Network at January 23, 2008 12:40 PM
Comments
About desserts that make me "wink and sparkle", two quickly come to mind (recipes, of course, at home), one for cherry cheesecake, have been making for over 45 years and one for sour cream chocolate cake. When I get home from winter in Florida, I will forward them to you!
Posted by: Pat Vandiver at January 26, 2008 7:40 PM
Desserts, now we are taking! My Mother always made an amazing strawberry shortcake with fresh whipped cream. We still have it for family birthdays. The house is divided when it comes to a particular family members birthday and the request is for butter cream with the berries. I also like the Old-Fashioned Icebox cake made with the chocolate wafers and cream. I have a soft spot for that and when I see them in the cookie aisle I always buy a box because people don't know what it is and it is a good dessert to throw together.
My biggest wink moment would be the Charlotte Rousse, maybe not the classic form but the kind my Pop Pop would buy me from the grocery store. Sponge cake , cream and jelly in a push up paper cup. That was such a treat! It would be eaten sometimes right in the store while walking around shopping. I have such fond memories of that simple cake being so fancy and special to me. Pop Pop is no longer around but that is a a special memory of him that I look back on when I think retro dessert.
Nice photo, it looks like German chocolate cake. Meatloaf is totally underrated. I never liked it much either then I realized most people don't make a good one.
Posted by: Kathy at January 28, 2008 1:11 PM
First, I need to know what junket is. Never had that one. But when it is listed with the likes of grasshoppers and peach melba, I don't question it's goodness.
My favorite dessert is my mom's Apple Betty. It is mostly special to me because I have a Grandma Betty. It took many years for me to realize it wasn't named after my grandma.
Posted by: Whitney at January 28, 2008 11:10 PM
Oh, is that you? You're so cute!
I love anything retro. I would consider desserts from the 80's, retro, as well. Maybe even early 90's! I'm 22, though.
I agree with all of the desserts that you listed above. I'm trying to think of more...
How about pineapple-upside-down cake? That's a classic.
Molten chocolate cakes? That's 80's-ish.
Tunnel of Fudge, Angelfood...I guess I just have cake on my mind.
Posted by: Emiline at January 29, 2008 2:03 AM
I love meatloaf!
Posted by: Flavor.sg at January 30, 2008 12:01 AM
Banana pudding is still a favorite of mine! The funniest thing, now that I think back on it, is that my mom always made the pudding according to the recipe on the Nilla Wafer box (instead of using instant pudding)--otherwise, we always used instant pudding. In my house, banana pudding is still a special-occasion dessert.
Junket was a custard, in a box. I always thought it was a little watery, and preferred pudding.
Yeah, you have to include bundt cakes. The tunnel of fudge was a particular favorite in my house.
Posted by: Claudia at February 11, 2008 4:37 PM